Headwaters of the Missisippi

You find bikes in the oddest places. Thats Kathy looking up at them,

sunflowers

bike trail at lake itasca

The group of us at the Mississippi

August 7th - Hitterdal, Minnesota
35 miles -- 500 feet cumulative elevation gain
85 degrees, humid, sunny -- perfect biking weather

This morning Kathy and I loaded up our bikes and rode out of Fargo and into Minnesota. We are fully loaded now, carrying all of our camping gear, so doing far fewer miles per day. We also had a bit of a headwind today, but even so, we were here shortly after noon. And there is NOTHING to do here -- this town consists of a mini-mart / gas station, a liquor store / bar, and this little half-acre city park where we are camping tonight. It looks like were are in someone’s back yard -- there are houses on 3 sides of us -- but our map says we can camp here and no one has tried to shoo us away yet.

So, it’s been a relaxing-bordering-on-boring afternoon of laying around trying to stay cool, waiting for the sun to go down and the temperature to drop. This little park has a bathroom, running water, electricity, and I was even able to connect to the internet! No lattes, though.

Laater: This evening the woman who lives in one of the adjacent houses came over and talked to us for awhile. She said there are bikers camping here 3 or 4 times per week. A little later a 10 year old boy rode over on his bike, telling us he was “usually the official greeter” and that he has talked to bikers staying hee from all over the world. The listing on the Adventure Cycling map is probably helping to keep this tiny town alive.

August 11th - Itasca State Park, Minnesota
Steamy. NOT perfect biking weather

I’m sitting in the hostel at Itasca State Park., having my morning coffee. The eight of us who are here for the reunion of the 2005 cross-country group have this place all to ourselves, and it’s very nice. Big kitchen, multiple bunk rooms, showers, and perhaps most important: air conditioning. I got up late this morning and everyone else is gone, probably over to the lake to rent canoes, and I will join them in a bit.

The 8th and 9th Kathy and I rode a total of about 70 miles, through a steam bath. For perhaps the first time ever, I cannot in good conscience say that this was perfect biking weather. At times it was downright miserable. My camp pillow feels like a wet towel. A sticky wet towel. All clothing is suffocating, so you can imagine what black lycra bike shorts feel like. The only thing more uncomfortable than riding in this weather is sitting still; at least when you’re riding, there’s a breeze. It’s not all that hot -- low to mid 80’s -- but my GOD, the humidity. Its like….oh yeah, I remember, it’s like August in the Midwest!

We headed directly for the lake when we got here, where I spent a couple of hours floating on my air mattress in the small, crowded swimming area. Between little kids, parents, and water-football games, it was still wonderfully refreshing, After two nights in air conditioning, I feel full human again.

We are a long last out of the great plains, and into the north woods. A mile north of here is the official headwaters of the Mississippi, where it drains out of Lake Itasca in a 4-foot-wide stream. I had always heard that you could straddle it there, but that’s a bit of a stretch.

This park is enormous. It’s about 10 miles long, and there are miles and miles of paved bike trails through the woods, a lodge and restaurant, several campgrounds, a huge bike and boat rental place, miles of hiking trails. If the weather was more temperate it would be a wonderful place, but as it is I don’t feel like doing much but sitting in the AC. I went for a 10 mile ride on the trail yesterday, very pretty, but I was soaked through to the skin by the time I’d ridden a couple of miles. I am fairly dreading loading all my belongings back on the bike and riding on towards Minneapolis in a couple of days. Oh how I hope the air dries out a bit.